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On themechanism of wavelength selection of self-organized shoreline sand waves

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dc.contributor Universitat de Vic. Escola Politècnica Superior
dc.contributor Universitat de Vic. Grup de Recerca en Medi Ambient i Alimentació
dc.contributor.author Van den Berg, Niels
dc.contributor.author Falqués, Albert
dc.contributor.author Ribas Prats, Francesca
dc.contributor.author Caballeria, Miquel
dc.date.accessioned 2014-09-16T17:02:55Z
dc.date.available 2014-09-16T17:02:55Z
dc.date.created 2014
dc.date.issued 2014
dc.identifier.citation van den Berg, N., Falques, A., Ribas, F., & Caballeria Suriñach, M. (2014). On themechanism of wavelength selection of self-organized shoreline sand waves. Journal of Geophysical Research-Earth Surface, 119(3), 665-681.10.1002/2013JF002751 ca_ES
dc.identifier.issn 2169-9003
dc.identifier.uri http://hdl.handle.net/10854/3260
dc.description.abstract Sandy shorelines exposed to very oblique wave incidence can be unstable and develop self-organized shoreline sand waves. Different types of models predict the formation of these sand waves with an initially dominant alongshore wavelength in the range 1–10 km, which is quite common in nature. Here we investigate the physical reasons for such wavelength selection with the use of a linear stability model. The existence of a minimum wavelength for sand wave growth is explained by an interplay of three physical effects: (a) largest relative (to the local shoreline) wave angle at the downdrift flank of the sand wave, (b) wave energy concentration at the updrift flank due to less refractive energy dispersion, and (c) wave energy concentration slightly downdrift of the crest due to refractive focusing. For small wavelengths, effects (a) and (c) dominate and cause decay, while for larger wavelengths, effect (b) becomes dominant and causes growth. However, the alongshore gradients in sediment transport decrease for increasing wavelength, making the growth rate diminish. There is therefore a growth rate maximum giving a dominant wavelength, LM. In contrast with previous studies, we show that LM scales with 𝜆�0∕𝛽� (𝜆�0 is the wavelength of the offshore waves and 𝛽� is the mean shoreface slope, fromshore to the wave base), an estimate of the order of magnitude of the distance waves travel to undergo appreciable transformation. Our model investigations show that the proportionality constant between LM and 𝜆�0∕𝛽� is typically in the range 0.1–0.4, depending mainly on the wave incidence angle. en
dc.format application/pdf
dc.format.extent 17 p. ca_ES
dc.language.iso eng ca_ES
dc.publisher Wiley ca_ES
dc.rights Tots els drets reservats
dc.rights (c) Blackwell Wiley [The definitive version is available at www3.interscience.wiley.com] ca_ES
dc.subject.other Platges - Erosió ca_ES
dc.title On themechanism of wavelength selection of self-organized shoreline sand waves en
dc.type info:eu-repo/semantics/article ca_ES
dc.identifier.doi https://doi.org/10.1002/2013JF002751
dc.relation.publisherversion http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1002/2013JF002751/abstract
dc.rights.accesRights info:eu-repo/semantics/closedAccess ca_ES
dc.type.version info:eu-repo/acceptedVersion ca_ES
dc.indexacio Indexat a SCOPUS
dc.indexacio Indexat a WOS/JCR ca_ES

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