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Self-organization mechanisms for the formation on nearshore crescentic and transverse sand bars

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dc.contributor Universitat de Vic. Escola Politècnica Superior
dc.contributor Universitat de Vic. Grup de Recerca de Medi Ambient
dc.contributor.author Caballeria, Miquel
dc.contributor.author Coco, G.
dc.contributor.author Falqués, Albert
dc.contributor.author Huntley, D.A.
dc.date.accessioned 2012-10-15T11:26:47Z
dc.date.available 2012-10-15T11:26:47Z
dc.date.created 2002
dc.date.issued 2002
dc.identifier.citation M. CABALLERIA, G. COCO, A. FALQUÉS and D. A. HUNTLEY (2002). Selforganization mechanisms for the formation of nearshore crescentic and transverse sand bars. Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 465, pp 379-410 doi:10.1017/ S002211200200112X ca_ES
dc.identifier.issn 0022-1120
dc.identifier.uri http://hdl.handle.net/10854/1897
dc.description.abstract The formation and development of transverse and crescentic sand bars in the coastal marine environment has been investigated by means of a nonlinear numerical model based on the shallow-water equations and on a simpli ed sediment transport parameterization. By assuming normally approaching waves and a saturated surf zone, rhythmic patterns develop from a planar slope where random perturbations of small amplitude have been superimposed. Two types of bedforms appear: one is a crescentic bar pattern centred around the breakpoint and the other, herein modelled for the rst time, is a transverse bar pattern. The feedback mechanism related to the formation and development of the patterns can be explained by coupling the water and sediment conservation equations. Basically, the waves stir up the sediment and keep it in suspension with a certain cross-shore distribution of depth-averaged concentration. Then, a current flowing with (against) the gradient of sediment concentration produces erosion (deposition). It is shown that inside the surf zone, these currents may occur due to the wave refraction and to the redistribution of wave breaking produced by the growing bedforms. Numerical simulations have been performed in order to understand the sensitivity of the pattern formation to the parameterization and to relate the hydro-morphodynamic input conditions to which of the patterns develops. It is suggested that crescentic bar growth would be favoured by high-energy conditions and ne sediment while transverse bars would grow for milder waves and coarser sediment. In intermediate conditions mixed patterns may occur. ca_ES
dc.format application/pdf
dc.format.extent 33 p. ca_ES
dc.language.iso eng ca_ES
dc.publisher Cambridge University Press ca_ES
dc.rights (c) Cambridge University Press
dc.subject.other Hidràulica ca_ES
dc.subject.other Mecànica de fluïds ca_ES
dc.title Self-organization mechanisms for the formation on nearshore crescentic and transverse sand bars ca_ES
dc.type info:eu-repo/semantics/article ca_ES
dc.identifier.doi https://doi.org/10.1017/S002211200200112X
dc.relation.publisherversion http://journals.cambridge.org/action/displayJournal?jid=FLM
dc.rights.accesRights info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess
dc.type.version info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersion
dc.indexacio Indexat a SCOPUS
dc.indexacio Indexat a WOS/JCR ca_ES

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